View Full Version : Just got my first pinball, Xenon
02-16-2010, 09:00 PM
I'm new to the forums but have been listening to the podcast since it started. I just picked up (actually it was delivered) my first pinball and was wondering what I should do first. Everything appears to be in working order, however, from what I've already read I should get a new set of balls, uhh, I mean replacement pinballs. The springs on the plunger look like they need to be replaced as well. I was looking on eBay and saw "tune up" kits and was wondering if they were worth it or if I should buy directly from a parts supplier. If so are there any recommendations for reputable sites and what I would need? The machine has been privately owned for a number of years but the previous owner never did any maintenance on it.
I will try to post some video and photos in a few days. It looks to be in good shape considering the age however the playfield is not bright.
Any guides for doing a "tune-up" on an older pinball?
Sadly the front glass/mirror is missing. I'll try looking locally for a replacement. If it's just a two way mirror it shouldn't be too hard to find.
Ultimate Arcade I (with Midway Arcade Treasures I, Mega Pack and Arcade Pack 7 game packs)
Crazy Climber cocktail
02-16-2010, 09:03 PM
Sweetness. Glad you are here. I am sure Scott will chime in on your pin questions. Also, I had a super nice Crazy Climber cocktail but sold it. Wish I still had it.
02-16-2010, 10:57 PM
So, allow me to translate;
HI my name is vibri2001, my first car was a Lamborghini Miura which I had to share with my girlfriend Mila Kunis who would only give me back door access because she was saving herself.
my first pinball and was wondering what I should do first. Everything appears to be in working order, however, from what I've already read I should get a new set of balls, uhh, I mean replacement pinballs. The springs on the plunger look like they need to be replaced as well. I was looking on eBay and saw "tune up" kits and was wondering if they were worth it or if I should buy directly from a parts supplier. If so are there any recommendations for reputable sites and what I would need? The machine has been privately owned for a number of years but the previous owner never did any maintenance on it.Stay away from the tune up kits. They are very random, not bad parts so much but there is smarter way to do this.
As far as parts. Classic Playfield reproductions did a playfield kit and plastics (the flat plastics part) about a year ago, you could possibly get a plastics set from them.
I tend to order from several companies, Marco Specialties and Bay area Pinball seem to be my usuals. I would say don't order yet, lets work out a list for you. No game that I know of is better suited to upgraded lighting than Xenon. LEDs are available for Xenon and allow the game to be what it was intended.
I would suggest getting LEDs for the back glass and key playfield locations, #47 bulbs for most playfield areas, and the LED/tube upgrade kits. The tube can be replaced with a new clear tube and the strip of white lights can be replaced with a LED strip of blues. ''
LEDs make this game. Think of the pop bumpers. They should be brilliant blue but they were sickly green why? Yellow (bulbs) and blue plastics give a sickly green. So, replace the pop bumper bulbs with blue LEDs and you get a vibrant result. I also did the back glass rings and the slingshot area.
I will try to post some video and photos in a few days. It looks to be in good shape considering the age however the playfield is not bright.Pics will help me help you.
Any guides for doing a "tune-up" on an older pinball?http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index.htm is a specific guide to the Bally and (Xenon) game.
Sadly the front glass/mirror is missing. I'll try looking locally for a replacement. If it's just a two way mirror it shouldn't be too hard to find.Xenon is very unique in the way it uses back glass and mirrors, please help me with pics.
Here are some pics of mine:
02-17-2010, 09:48 PM
OK I uploaded a video and sent the link to the techquestions email address. I just got the Flip video camera for Christmas and this is the first video I sent to the Flip channels so let me know if it didn't work. Also, let me know if it is not clear enough or if you need a better video or pic of a certain part of the machine.
02-19-2010, 06:06 AM
I wanted to do a little clean up on the playfield and cabinet while I'm waiting on ordering and installing parts. Some parts of the playfield appear to have some cracking, mostly areas where the ball never touches it. what can I use to clean the playfield without damaging the paint?
02-19-2010, 12:06 PM
From the same place you order parts from, order a bottle of Novus #1 and Novus #2. They will do a wonderful job on general dirt and removing ball tracks etc. I swear by it. You can clean the bottom of plastics with #1 and the tops with #2 as well. Are your standoffs brilliant blue or have they faded to green? If they are still blue but dirty you can put them in a dishwasher, if they are faded just replace them.
02-21-2010, 05:13 PM
Placing my first order for parts soon. I've been able to determine some of the items I need.want to replace:
What I need now
light bulbs-I've counted at least ten that are burnt out (or very dim) but you mentioned certain bulbs should be replaced with LEDs. Is that just the light strip by the tube or are there other bulbs on the play field? The #47 bulbs are fairly cheap so I was going to get 3-4 boxes of those but I'm not sure how many ( and which type) of the LED bulbs to get.
Novus-I was planning on getting an 8 oz bottle of each #1, #2, #3. I only have the one table now so I don't know if the 2 oz bottles might be a better purchase. Not sure how much it will take for the inital cleaning and then how much will I use it after that.
Pinballs-Xenon only has a two ball multiplay so I don't see any reason to order more than two new pinballs.
Plunger springs-the exterior spring definitely needs to be replaced but I may as well replaced the inner spring since they appear to be very inexpensive.
Plastic caps for the playfield plastic bolt-many of these are missing or the entire bolt has been replaced with a screw.
Center bumper cover-some replaced the original with what looks like a bumper from "Disco Fever" :) or some other artifact from the 70's instead of the translucent blue which defines the 80's
Coin mech-this is optional depending on the price. I would like to set it up to use coins rather than opening it up each time and triggering credits manually. A Susan B Anthony coin mech would be ideal since those were only issued from '79-'81
Coin door lock-I don't have the key to mine and there is no catch for it anyway.
Stand-offs-I'm not sure what those are but if they are the clear ribbed cone shaped things under the play-field plastics then they are all different colors (blue, white, red, etc.) and probably need to be replaced.
New plastics set-current set appears to be in good condition with the exception of one piece which is warped or bent.
If you can clarify what I need based on my notes above I would greatly appreciate it.
02-21-2010, 06:01 PM
Ok, glad to help, here are some suggestions.
light bulbs- I would buy at least 12 boxes and replace everything you don't LED. Going to #47s offloads your power supply and boards. As for the LEDs, tastes vary but I used Hyperbrite there are several options. If you look at Marcospecialties or Bay area pinball they have them available. At a minimum I would suggest ordering blue for under the slingshots, pop bumpers, and the outer ring of LEDs on the backglass. I would also strongly suggest picking up a pack of Red and Yellow #47s. I used yellows in the very center of the backglass and reds by the shooter area. I also used red LEDs behind the drop targets. Just remember with LEDs there are AC and DC LEDs. If a bulb is computer controlled (turns on and off) get DC, if it turns on and stays on as soon as you flip the switch get a AC. These guys did the outer frame with blue and red, I though it looked better with #47 bulbs, to each their own, just another thought.
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Novus- Get an 8oz of #2 and an 8oz of #1, I have found finess and #2 gets you further than #3.
Pinballs- Yes, two is fine, I like the mirror finish chrome balls, it really helps you track the bulb on a darker game like Xenon.
Plunger - Yes just replace both and be done with it. Your rubber kit will include a new shooter tip as well.
Plastic caps for the playfield plastic bolt I am not sure what you are talking about here, can you explain more?
Center bumper cover - I assume you found these? They are available now.
Coin mech - I would not buy one new, I have thrown away more than I can count. Perhaps post here that you are looking for one and maybe someone will have one to just give you. Until you get one just flip the coin switch manually.
Coin door lock - I am not home right now so I can't walk over and look at mine but as I recall it just locks against the frame. I will try to check and update this point when I get home in the AM.
Stand-offs - Yep, mine were faded to puke green. No worries, just count them up and order new ones. Marco, Bay area, etc they mostly all sell them. Just be sure to match the style and the height!
I would suggest going ahead and getting the tube, you never know when they won't be available since they are all hand made. Granted it is nothing but acrylic tubing from Mcmaster Carr as well as a simple PCB but it is very conveneint to just get one. Since you will aready be tearing into it for posts and lamps just do it all at once.
You also want a rubber kit, white. It comes with all the bands as well as new flippers and shooter tip. Also check your leg bolts and leg levelers for their condition. New ones are super cheap.
I would also suggest a can of never dull chrom polish (target and auto parts stores) for the legs and ramp parts. You will find allot of pride in frequently cleaning your game and making it even better with fixing any little flaws but this should get you off to a start.
Oh last second thought, look at the pics I posted, I think the red is needed in some areas to balance the blue. Maybe get two boxes of red. I think I used a dozen or so and you will always need spares.
02-22-2010, 07:39 PM
Plastic caps for the playfield plastic bolt I am not sure what you are talking about here, can you explain more? Please see attached JPG.
will the Novus fix the playfield worn as badly as what I have?
Also, can I remove this plastic and flatten it back out with some type of heat?
I cannot find standoffs on the Marco specialties site. I searched for standoffs and stand-offs but found nothing that look what I think I am looking for. In the warped plastic picture is it the tower above the red arrow?
02-22-2010, 08:35 PM
Just about any playfield can be restored, even if they look pretty bad. The supplies to do so are cheap and it just takes patience and some skill. Here is a great article on how to do just that. (http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/2001pf.htm) Another option, there are what is called playfield overlays, a giant very tough decal (mylar) that totally resurfaces the playfield images, inserts everything. You must strip the playfield bare and apply it after sanding the playfield. A third option is that a company called Classic Playfield reproductions made an entire reproduction playfield. These things go in production runs and may or may not be available at any given time, so you will need to do some searching. Novus and waxing will help, you just have to see how it cleans up and evaluate your options. If you decide to paint and touch up, you can get new instert decals here from bay area pinball (http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-XENON777NL&Category_Code=GS-2821&Product_Count=0).
Marcospecialties has a plastics set available for $99. If you want to attempt a flatten, you can try it several ways. Get a glass dish (oven safe and flat) and place it in your oven at 180~220 and watch until you see the plasic start to relax. Then pull it out and place it between two flat smooth surfaces for a half hour.
If I see correctly you are looking for the rubber nuts that hold the plastics on? Here; http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=38-6543
For the standoffs start here (http://www.marcospecialties.com/storeitems.asp?cc=PFLD-PPOST) and start stepping through the pages till you find your style, then measure the height on the machine since they come in different heights. You can also match the part number in the manual as well.
02-22-2010, 10:06 PM
I have almost everything now, just two more questions.
Since the LEDs are quite expensive I think I just want to do the four pop bumpers. Can you tell me which ones those are? It looks like there are 13 in this search http://www.marcospecialties.com/storeitems.asp?cc=LAMP-LED&txtkey=blue
Also, we have played close to 80 games over the past week and just last night the right flipper started to stick. It pops all the way up when pressed but only comes back halfway. Is this a simple issue or should I wait to order in case I need other parts?
Here is my list:
Part number Item Detail Qty Amount
PB116 Ball 1-1/16" (Standard ball)KABOOM! 2 $3.98
04-0047 Lamp #47 Miniature - 10 pack 12 $18.00
LB58 Leg bolt 3/8-16 x 2-7/16 - 5/8 acorn hd 1 $0.75
LKA78 Lock and cam - 7/8" keyed-alike 1 $4.50
10-149 Spring - Ball shooter outer barrel 2 $0.78
A-3713-66 XENON (Bally) pop bumper cap 1 $7.95
10-148-3 Shooter spring blue .038" High tension 1 $0.95
04-0047B Lamp #47 Miniature Blue - 10 pack 2 $5.90
04-0047R Lamp #47 Miniature Red - 10 pack 2 $5.90
C-952-4 Post 1-1/8" concentric fin blue 38 $28.50
38-6543 Rubber Post Cap - White 25 $4.00
RK1863-1 XENON (Bally) Rubber Ring Kit WHITE 1 $14.95
NOVUS1-8 Novus #1 Plastic Cleaner - 8 oz. bottle 1 $3.89
NOVUS2-8 Novus #2 Polish - 8 oz. bottle 1 $4.29
10-148-2 Shooter spring red .042" Highest tension 1 $0.69
02-22-2010, 11:09 PM
Ideally with a machine you want to overhaul things like flippers if they are sticking. Chances are it is just a worn/dirty sleeve. The metal plunger that goes through the coil rides in a nylon sleeve, you need to replace that, and use novus #2 to clean and polish the metal plunger so that it all works smoothly. That will likely solve your problem and they are cheap (http://www.marcospecialties.com/Itemdesc.asp?ic=03-7066), about 69 cents each. Any further binding after replacing them and we can dig deeper. Remember, once you get this thing squared away over time it will be quite reliable in home use. Lots of great info on your flippers here (http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index3.htm#flips). Remember, do not lubricate these!
For the pop bumpers you should need 05-555B-HO
I would really suggest buying 4 05-44BF for the slingshop plastics, they really work well with the effect you will get with the LED pops.
Just for fun replace all but one of the pops with LEDs, power it up and just take a look.
02-23-2010, 09:38 AM
Do you have a PDF of the parts catalog? Also, how many of the coil sleeves should I order, are they the same sleeve for all he coils?
Thanks for all your time Scott.
02-23-2010, 04:32 PM
I do not have a PDF, you can call and ask them I am sure if they have a catalog. Allot of coils use that size, I can't recall off the top of my head how many in Xenon but order a few extras if you want, you will use them at some point.
Glad to see listeners taking the leap in to pinball ownership!
02-23-2010, 07:30 PM
Placed my order. Shipping via FedEx Ground so I imagine I've got a week or two before I need to get to work. A little more than I was expecting for my first order but I think I ordered what I needed plus a few extras of certain items. I'm very excited to get the Novus and clean that playfield up.
Thanks for all your help Scott.
02-24-2010, 05:30 PM
It took me about a week to figure out everything I needed to order to clean up my machine. Placed my order last night and received an email early this afternoon that my order had shipped. Woo Hoo!!! Can't wait for my order to arrive. I need to get busy on documenting the before pictures and video.
02-25-2010, 05:25 PM
Looks like my parts will be here Monday. The coin door has three slots, two quarter and one labeled Susan B. Anthony. There were two coins mechs inside (one quarter and one token). I was able to get the quarter mech working in the SBA slot so now I won't have to keep opening the door to coin up the machine. Once the lock arrives on Monday with my other parts my new "piggy bank" will be set to start saving quarters.
This link (http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index.htm) seems more for repair (with the exception of the flipper mentioned earlier everything appears fine) is this one (http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index.htm) (from the same site) suitable for "shopping" or restoring or is there a better link? I don't want to ruin the resale value by repainting or touching up something.
02-25-2010, 05:44 PM
Pinrepair (the site you linked) is THE finest pinball repair site. Useful for novices and experts!
02-25-2010, 07:06 PM
Pinrepair (the site you linked) is THE finest pinball repair site. Useful for novices
Hope to be someday.
02-25-2010, 08:44 PM
I might have jinxed myself. I played a few games earlier tonight and then my daughter and her friend played for about 20 minutes. I went down to play a few more games and it appears to be dead. I asked my daughter and she says it was fine when they were done. She turned it off and unplugged it.
Now when I turn it on I get about 10-15 bulbs on the playfield lit and I can barely see a glow in the score displays but nothing else in the head unit. The lights turn but it doesn't go through the normal 'Boot up' or whatever it's called in the pinball world.
Any quick ideas before I sift through the repair guide I said I didn't need a few hours ago. :CRY:
02-26-2010, 06:56 AM
Don't panic, just think about it logically. The bulbs that come on instantly are the general illumination by all reason. You can confirm this, are the ones on the top corner, slingshots, and pop bumpers? The glow in the score boards means that high voltage section is working. The GI means that the 6.3vac is working, both of those mean you transformer is probably fine as is the majority of the driver/regulator board. So you know allot works.
Pinrepair has a great section dedicated to Bally of that era showing you how to troubleshoot the no-boot condition. You need nothing more than a $25 multimeter for 99% of the work.
The first thing I would suggest checking is the +5v entering the MPU, that will tell you if there is any power supply issue. You have then divided the problem in half. It is either the PS or MPU. If you don't see the 5v then time to start looking at the power supply, if you do, start looking at the MPU.
Do you have the manual/ schematics?
This is exactly where you need to start in pinrepair.
02-26-2010, 07:21 AM
Don't panic, just think about it logically.
02-28-2010, 10:10 AM
Already have the manual, schematics and a MM. It's been a while since I used a MM on circuit boards. According to the link for the MPU I should be watching the LED for flashes. It doesn't light up at all. The first thing I want to measure is test point 2 for +12V.
I just want to be clear as I said it's been a while. The machine should be powered on and I'll be testing the A4 board with the black lead on TP4 and the red lead on TP2, right?
EDIT: Nothing on TP5 and only 0.6VDC on TP2. I had the MM set to DC and the 3V setting (the next one is 30V). Is that the right setting?
So this leads me back to the power supply to check next, right?
BTW it did come one and play for about two balls this morning before it died during game play.
One more thing, a few days ago (before it died) I was going through the self-tests. It appeared as though solenoids 16 and 17 were not firing, the machine was silent as it went through those two numbers on the display.
02-28-2010, 12:13 PM
I do not have access to my documentation and machine right now, I will reply in detail when I get home. But, I would suggest pulling the CPU board and checking the solder joints where the pins are (top right plug in specific, but check them all) for cracks. It will look often like a hairline circle around the pin in the solder. These often crack and you get power, no power etc. Also check them for condition (corrosion, burning) if you find cracks or just feel like eliminating a possible problem, reflow the solder on those pins.
02-28-2010, 02:27 PM
I would suggest pulling the CPU board and checking the solder joints where the pins are (top right plug in specific, but check them all) for cracks.
Is the CPU board the same as the MPU board?
Also, the pinrepair guide recommends cutting off the battery to prevent leakage issues. Do you concur?
Attached are two pictures. One showing the glow in the score displays (just a comma showing) and the other is the MPU board. The plugs you are suggesting to check are the red plugs down the right hand side, right?
02-28-2010, 02:35 PM
Yes, CPU/MPU same thing, but I realized I made a mistake, I meant to say the connectors on the right hand side of the regulator driver board which is directly to the right. That top right one is often a trouble spot. I would suggest checking them all on both the MPU and the driver board but start with that top right one on the driver regulator board.
02-28-2010, 02:45 PM
Do I need to be careful about anything on the boards themselves when I pull the boards out of the cabinet? Are they anymore delicate or dangerous that parts inside a PC? I assume the power supply could be dangerous but what about the capacitors on the boards?
03-01-2010, 12:01 PM
Unplug the machine for sure. You can short across the capacitors with a wire with a clip on each end, I usually just touch my meter across them set to voltage and there is usually nothing or it discharges just from the meter alone. Be gentle, use needle nose to flatten the nylon standoffs as you work the board around them. Take pictures, label if you want.
Also, When I got home last night I realized I forgot that I had the Ultimate MPU (an aftermarket modern MPU that replaces the Bally original) in my Xenon. I need to look into my schematics and that can't happen until Thursday due to work and class.
03-01-2010, 01:35 PM
I need to look into my schematics and that can't happen until Thursday due to work and class.
I thought we established you have no class? ;)
03-01-2010, 06:26 PM
My order arrived today (see picture), sure doesn't look like $130+. I did buy extra parts though and hopefully I could use the Novus on another machine (If I could talk my wife into another one in the future).
Now, if I only had a working machine to put all this cool stuff into. Oh well, back to troubleshooting and/or searching for that elusive "magic reset button" that will make everything better.
03-01-2010, 07:33 PM
It never does look like $130 does it, and trust me it never will. But, if you want comparison start building airplanes. Then you can get a $12,000 box that you can hold in one hand....
If you get into pinball, your are not getting out, the extra money is no big deal. You will use the parts.
Ok, on the MPU tell me the values at TP4 and TP1
On the Rectifier driver board tell me the values at TP1 & TP3
03-01-2010, 09:25 PM
I attached a couple pictures from the solenoid driver board. Some stuff doesn't look right there.
On the solenoid driver board I get 0 VDC at both TP1 and TP3.
After about 20 minutes of playing "Where's Waldo" (otherwise known as "Where's the @$!*ing Ground TP on the MPU board") I was able to measure 0 VDC at TP1 (according to the repair guide at pinrepair TP4 is the GND, even though the Bally manual does not show it as such).
I also tested the fuses I could find (one on the solenoid board, one on the bottom of the playfield and the five on the rectifier board) all appear to be fine, I get no resistance with the MM.
Is there something really wrong with this machine? Seriously, it was working fine and then a few hours later it was dead.
03-02-2010, 06:22 PM
OK, it seems more like it;s the power supply. Following the guide at Pinrepair, for the MPU board I got 0.62 VDC at TP2 and oVDC at TP5. The next step it said was to check the rectifier board, TP3 was 0.62 VDC. It said to check test points E11 and E12, I can't find those on the board or indicated in the manual, are they there and just not marked well? I decided to check the other TPs since I had it open. I got
8VDC at TP1
247VDC at TP2
0.62VDC at TP3
0VDC at TP4
45.5 VDC at TP5
Any ideas where I go from here? Should I disconnect all the outputs from the rectifier board and recheck to ensure it is an input to the rectifier and not a short on one of the outputs?
03-02-2010, 07:17 PM
Your power supply is not producing the 12vdc that the driver board regulates to 5v for the MPU, TP3 tells us that. There can only be a few things wrong here. Likely problems are;
1. pin problem, Inspect for cracks at the pin solder joints.
2. F3 fuse holder going bad
3. Failed or failing rectifier
This is a pretty easy thing. Tell me what you measure at F3 (test both sides) and if it is 12vac or so there is a problem on the power supply board. If it is zero at the fuse that means the AC is not getting to the board to be rectified into the 12vdc. That could be the transformer, wire, but very unlikely as the other voltages are fine. My bet is that you have a failing pin or connector.
If you get 0v at F3 pull the power supply board, flip it over and check those pins for cracks, inspect the connector plugs as well. Reflow the solder on the pins on the power supply board.
03-03-2010, 05:11 PM
I get roughly 7VAC at each end of F3. Proceeding to pull the power module for visual inspection.
Update: I pulled the power module and I think that is definitely the problem board which problem to attack I don't know. Uploading some pictures in a few minutes. Looks like there are some scorch marks under R1 and R2. Even darker 'burns' under CR5, CR6, CR7 AND CR8. I figured that's not right, fuses are supposed to burn out so that your components don't. So I took a better look at the fuses (which all test fine, none blown). Well, F3 which is supposed to be a 4A fuse was holding an 8A fuse. Here are the values of the fuses currently in place:
Maybe a good tech tip for a future podcast would be to check all your fuses before turning on any new machine you acquire.
03-03-2010, 06:57 PM
Here are the pics. Is this board salvageable with those dark spots? I'd hate to have to spend $110 if I can just get the repair kit for $11 (or less if I go straight to Radio Shack). It looks like the solder from CR5 goes straight to the F# socket. Could that be the ultimate cause of the issue?
03-04-2010, 09:08 AM
The black marks can come from a one off failure but are present on many boards after 30 years of running hot. They built those boards to the bare minimum, a very good reason why we go to lower wattage bulbs in the whole machine.
But for now, your 7v measurement at F3 is right at half of what it should be, pull J6, measure from the blue to the blue wire, you should get 14v (or close) if you are getting that then your transformer is fine. Check that next.
If you get the repair kit, Big daddy pinball sells them, that would be fine if you actually have failed components. You might, but I am betting on a pin or trace problem.
As long as your transformer is 14v (AC) at the blue and blue you are likely down to a very small part of the circuit. If you look at your schematic you will see what is called a bridge rectifier, in your case CR5 6 7 and 8. These turn AC into DC. Either one of these or a part of the circuit is bad somewhere between pin 3 and 6 on J6.
You need to check leg by leg, pin 3 to F3, other side of F3 to CR5 and 6. etc. It looks to me like your board has seen some repairs, it may deviate from the schematics. I think it is very repairable from what I see. You can replace missing traces with point to point wires, but if it is past your comfort level you can just replace the board.
03-04-2010, 04:37 PM
You can replace missing traces with point to point wires, but if it is past your comfort level you can just replace the board.
Actually spending $100 is beyond my comfort level. If I'm going to toss the board and replace it with another one I might as well try to repair it first. I mean, what could possibly go wrong? Just kidding. I think I do need to find something around the house to re-familiarize myself with soldering before I attempt any repair, otherwise I might be replacing the board after all.
03-04-2010, 04:50 PM
What did you get for J6 blue to blue?
03-04-2010, 07:50 PM
J6 Blue to Blue was 14.94VAC. Checking out the CR5-8 diodes.
Edit: This whole section is a mess. I can't see the traces in the board at all in that area. Can I test each diode to determine if any are bad, would I need to desolder them or could I test them in place?. I don't seem to get very good readings and the board is so dark I can't see through to tell where each is supposed to connect. I imagine there is quite a bit of issues in this little section. Is it possible to rebuild this bridge rectifier on another board and just jumper the connection points to where they belong? Would that be safe?
03-04-2010, 10:55 PM
Attached are a couple of back lit pictures of the component based bridge rectifiers showing the view of the traces.
03-05-2010, 09:12 AM
You can build one, or get one already done in a 4 pin package.
03-07-2010, 07:25 AM
03-11-2010, 05:53 PM
My neighbor came over Saturday and helped revive Xenon. It turns out it was CR6 and CR7. About $2 tax included to fix. Since it is now working again we had an impromptu pinball night / cookout. Many games of Xenon followed by dinner then an hour or two of Millipede (Ultimate Arcade machine) followed by about another 12 games of Xenon.
So I have now finished my before videos and started working on replacing parts. I got the white pop bumper replaced with the correct Xenon cap, plunger springs replaced, replaced all the play field topside bulbs and the head unit bulbs. Put four of the LED bulbs in the slingshot and in the pop bumpers. Scott, I thought you were crazy when you said the original lights make the bumpers look sickly green. Mine looked fine, just a little dim. But once I put in the LEDs and turned it back on with only three replaced I could see what you meant. I'll post pictures in a little bit. Time to go play a little Xenon.
03-11-2010, 06:02 PM
Congrats. That is one sweet pin! I have always wanted a Xenon. I just picked up the NBA Fastbreak pin this week and am loving it. Having pins in the house kicks so much ass :E:
03-11-2010, 06:10 PM
Nice! I didn't believe it either until by accident, I had powered it up with one bulb still in place. The LEDs really let the game look like it should, the technology has arrived to meet the vision. Do post some pics! Your job now is to find and install the front glass on the backbox, have you ever seen Xenon with that mirror glass in place? Then bit by bit get each area into shape. Any thoughts on what you might do next?
03-11-2010, 06:23 PM
I still have new pinballs, blue posts, rubbers, the play field cleanup/polishing and find a suitable replacement for the front back glass.. I think the rubbers, pinballs and cleaning the play field all go together. So probably need to install the blue posts next. I didn't replace all the under play field bulbs as those are tough to get to, any secret? I also need to trace down some of the wires to the under play field sockets as I replaced the bulbs but they still don't light up. Do I need a specific gauge wire if I need to replace the entire run to a socket?
03-11-2010, 06:46 PM
Backglass, the only suitable replacement in my opinion is the original. It is not just clear glass, it has silhouetted mirror areas that create the infinity effect so it looks many layers deep. Flip back in the thread and take a look at the pic I posted of my backglass. It is worth holding out and searching for an original.
Playfield bulbs, You can remove the screw on most of them. It is worth it to get them out of the way so you can clean the inside of the insert with a cotton cloth and windex. You would not believe how much black dust has risen up there over 30 years on the warm air. Just cleaning them will make an amazing difference. It really is worth doing every bulb for appearance and reducing the load on the machine. Sometimes you have to replace sockets, sometimes a pencil eraser will clean them nice. It is almost never the actual wire run, but if it is 16 gauge is overkill enough for anything in your game, 18 is probably fine but if you don't want to bother with calulating the gauge just go 16.
03-11-2010, 09:16 PM
Backglass, the only suitable replacement in my opinion is the original. It is not just clear glass, it has silhouetted mirror areas that create the infinity effect so it looks many layers deep. Flip back in the thread and take a look at the pic I posted of my backglass. It is worth holding out and searching for an original.
I was thinking I should be able to find a local company that has glass for a two way mirror and can cut it to fit the back box.
03-11-2010, 09:33 PM
The problem is that it is not just a single shade, there is a pattern that created specific reflections in specific areas for a 3d effect. Of course I can't find a pic now, but I have seen pics on the web. If you look at the pic below from ipdb you can generally see how some areas are mirrored and some are not, look for the areas that seem shadowy.
08-23-2010, 06:16 PM
Scott, I finally got the rest of my blue posts installed and the play field cleaned up and installed the new rubbers. The problem I have now is that the light bar and transport tube had many riser posts attached to them which I didn;t realize when I removed it and they fell to the table before I could figure out where they went. The manuals don't show how the parts go back together. Can you point me to a picture or a diagram or description of how the bar and tube go back together? I tried what seemed to be obvious but have been unsuccessful so far.
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